Toolbox for Ethical Shopping Pt.1

"Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world." - Nelson Mandela

Since starting this blog, I've become more and more passionate about purchasing my clothing with the knowledge that no one was harmed or taken advantage of during the production process.  And the more I talk to others about this, I find that many people would like to do the same, but aren't sure where to find the information they need in order to make informed spending decisions.  Like I've mentioned in the past, I don't blame people - it is confusing and there aren't a lot of resources out there that will tell you one way or another what stores are safe to shop at, and which aren't.  I've also found it overwhelming to step into my local mall and try to figure out where I can shop in good conscious.

A very large part of the reason I work in the non-profit sector, and specifically at the Wellspring Foundation, is that I believe education has the power to change the world.  In Africa it has the power to lift children and their families out of poverty, and here in North America it has the power to help us make informed choices, and discern the best ways to help our brothers and sisters across the world who are deprived of the opportunities we have in our affluent society. The main weapon we need in order fight the battle against child labour, forced labour and harsh working conditions for our garment producers is knowledge.  So, I've decided to start a project.  Beginning with the mall I shop at most often (as do most of my readership at this point), I will research each store, the brands they carry, their supply chains and auditing processes and let you know which shops you can shop at with confidence, and which to steer clear of.

Fortunately, Coquitlam Centre (the mall I'll be critiquing) is quite large and has stores that appear in malls all over North America, so most likely anyone on the continent will have a good idea of some stores that they can feel good about shopping at.  Since the list is so large, I'll be doing this in seven parts.  I started my research in alphabetical order, so this post will feature stores with names beginning with A or B.  To make things simple, I'll be categorizing each store as a Green Light, if I could find information that shows that the store is actively combatting human trafficking, child labour, and harsh conditions in the supply chain, and that there are unannounced audits of the factories on a regular basis; Yellow Light,  if there is information that the company is doing something to keep forced labour, child labour and harsh conditions out of its factories, with regular audits, though generally announced, giving factories time to cover up actions that might not be tolerated; or Red Light is there is little or no information on the companies supply chain, or if a document has been signed committing to combating these practices, but there is no information on how this is done or if suppliers are held accountable.

Acinda Jewellers 
The store itself doesn't seem to have a website.  The closest I could get is the PANDORA website, which is a brand they sell. PANDORA has been certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), is working to minimize it's environmental footprint, and claims to offer safe working conditions, competitive wages and a comprehensive benefit package to all employees in it's supply chain.  The website boasts:  “Through the RJC, we actively engage with other responsible jewellery brands, organisations and civil society to lead the way towards a more sustainable jewellery industry, from mine to retail.”
All in all, I would say Acinda Jewellers is a Yellow Light company.  While I would have very little issue with purchasing PANDORA jewellery from them, I couldn't find any information on other brand names they carry.

ALDO Shoes
ALDO group - the company behind the accessory store, is very unique.  ALDO has direct sourcing, in which the ALDO group controls every stage of production - nothing is outsourced, and they own all their production facilities.  They also have an environmental strategy called CHANGE, which is a detailed plan to reduce their carbon footprint.

Alia N TanJay

While this company support breast cancer campaigns locally, it is impossible to find any information on their supply chains, making me hesitant to shop there.  If you can't find any information, it's probably because they aren't doing anything.

American Eagle Outfitters

I wasn't a huge fan of American Eagle until I did some research on their company, and I was blown away!  Not only are they a signatory of The California Transparency in Supply Chains Act of 2010, which went into effect on January 1, 2012 and "required retail companies and manufacturers doing business in California with annual worldwide gross receipts of more than US$100 million to disclose corporate policies to eradicate slavery and human trafficking in their supply chains", the also have an entire website with detailed information on how American Eagle is treating their producers with dignity and respect.  Check it out at betterworld.ae.com!  American Eagle outfitters has pre-sourcing inspection of facilities, they help existing suppliers meet expectations for social compliance and remedy any issues they face.  Their website also talks about how they value transparency in suppliers:  “In 2010, we took a strong stance to guarantee that we received full, genuine reporting of supply chain issues. We informed suppliers that failure to show an accurate accounting of workplace conditions (including real and correct books of records) or attempts to hide any information necessary to the audit would result in a significant penalty – up to and including termination of our business relationship.”

Their suppliers are prohibited from using child labour (defined as workers younger than 15 or the compulsory age to be in school),  forced or involuntary labour, using corporal punishment, threats of violence or harassment, discrimination in hiring based on “race, religion, age, nationality, social or ethnic origin, sexual orientation, gender or political opinion," and they must supply a safe and healthy working environment.  The company also inspects the suppliers facilities, sometimes unannounced or without notice.  Part of this process is private interviews with the workers at the facilities, giving them the opportunity to tell the inspectors things they wouldn't in front of their bosses.

Ann Louise Jewellers

Their website boasts that all diamonds are conflict free, and they carry Canadian diamonds.  However, I couldn't find information on any of the other metals used in their products.

Apple

I love Apple.  This quote from their website is one reason: 

“Because education is a great equalizer, we’re investing heavily in helping workers throughout our supply chain learn new skills and better understand their rights. In 2013, more than 280,000 people at 18 supplier sites took courses in a range of subjects through our free education and development program. In addition, our suppliers trained more than 1.5 million workers on their rights, bringing the total number trained since 2007 to 3.8 million.”  They also work to help suppliers protect student interns and other at-risk workers. They're working to end excessive work hours. They're also driving responsible sourcing of minerals, and have publicly released a list of smelters and refiners in their supply chain to promote transparency.  In fact, Apple recently released a statement saying there was no forced labour used in their tantalum mines (a mineral used in most electronics.)  So far, they are the only company I know of that has been able to say that.  They conduct hundreds of audits each year at every point in their supply chain, and they have a list of 18 final assembly facilities and top 200 suppliers on the website.  They really take transparency to a whole new level!

Ardene

Absolutely no information on producers or supply chain to be found.

Aritzia

Aritzia is unique as it has a Social and Environmental Responsibility Team, whose mission is guiding employees and partners toward socially and environmentally responsible decisions:   “We love our people, so we take care to ensure that everyone we work with (from the employees in our office, to our cleaning staff, to the person who sews the button onto your parka) are treated fairly, paid properly, and work in a healthy and safe environment.”  A third-party social compliance auditing company conducts annual workplace condition audits of all their garment factories and their SER team works with vendors and factories to make improvements in any area that receives low scores.  I love their philosophy on their production factories as well: “We do not believe in severing partnerships; instead, we believe in working to continuously improve the performance and well-being of all our collaborators."  One down side, which is why Aritzia is a split between green and yellow, is that all their factory inspections are announced, which could potentially give the managers time to cover-up any misdemeanours   However, Aritzia announces inspections within a two-week window, which may help to limit this.  

Aritzia gives back at home, too.  They partner with a Salvation army project that rescues victims of human trafficking and abuse and provide them with shelter and a safe environment while they heal, as well as the Umoja Operation whose mission is to empower minorities and other refugees to integrate into Canadian society and to support initiatives to improve the quality of life in the third world.

Atmosphere

I could find no information on the store website, however, there are a few brands which they carry which are known for being socially responsible - Patagonia in particular.

Bath and Body Works

The only information I can find on their website is that they don’t test on animals, which is great, but says nothing about the people that work for them.  I'm not sure of the processes involved in the making of bath and body products, but I found it strange that there was no information whatsoever on their website.

Bell

 Bell has introduced e-bills and reusable bags, as well as a battery and mobile phone recycling program in their stores to limit their environmental footprint, which is great!  But what about the materials used in the products they sell, and the people who make them?  While the website says that Bell is a signatory of the United Nations Global Compact, a set of universal principles addressing human rights, labour, the environment and anti-corruption issues, and notes that supply chain issues are a mega-trend in the industry, the website does not outline what (if anything) Bell is doing to monitor their supply chains.

Below the Belt

I could find no information whatsoever on their website about supply chains.  However, they do list their brands, so one could research each brand individually.   I’ve done research on a few of them, to get us started.

·        Volcom is a signatory of the California Transparency in Supply Chains Act.  Their auditing process includes third-party audits of the entire factory, including its dormitories. The auditing teams interview groups of workers, as well as individuals, without the presence of their management, to allow them to comment on their working conditions and any suspected abuse. All audits are scheduled in advance.

·          Obey has no information on its website about supply chains.

            Element has adopted Social Accountability International's SA8000 social compliance standard, which states that there should be no use or support of child labor, no use or support for forced or compulsory labour, a safe and healthy workplace should be provided, each employee should have  Freedom of Association and Right to Collective Bargaining, and there should be no discrimination based on race, national or social origin, caste, birth, religion, disability, gender, sexual orientation, union membership, political opinions and age.  There's actually a lot more on their website, but for the sake of time, feel free to check it out yourself if you want more information.

      Fox: "Fox trains its staff involved with the vendor selection and evaluation process in social responsibility issues, inclusive of human trafficking and slavery, for both new and seasoned employees, [and]... conducts refresher seminars annually.  Fox suppliers has to sign their code of conduct, and must  submit to an audit on a regular basis. I think you get the idea, so I'll stop there.  Feel free to check out the Below the Belt website and research any of your favourite brands!

Ben Moss  

Ben Moss sells Canadian diamond, which are mined in Canada, and are conflict free.  They also have a statement on their website which says, “Ben Moss Jewellers believes in working with the World’s Diamond Industry in stopping the sale of conflict diamonds. Ben Moss Jewellers has received guarantees from our diamond suppliers that they participate with the Kimberly Process and that diamonds provided to Ben Moss Jewellers are conflict-free.”  While this is comforting, there's no information on how this is guaranteed.

Bentley

Bentley gives to 2 charities locally, but has no information on their supply chains.

Best Buy

Best Buy has a “Best Buy for Kids” giving program, which supports local and national programs.  However, they have no information on their supply chains.  What might be best in the case of Best Buy is to research the brand of electronic you are planning on buying.  Or just stick with Apple.

Blueline sports

The Blueline Sports website also has no information on their supply chains.

Bluenotes

Bluenotes has raised massive amounts of money for the Kids Help Phone, which is a great cause!  However, they also have no information on their factories or the people who make their clothes.

Boathouse

Boathouse has very little information on their responsibility globally, but does contribute to two local funds.  It also features three brands which are more socially conscious, two of which - Ten Trees and WeWood - are environmentally friendly, and one -TOMs shoes - which gives shoes and glasses to people in the developing world.  Here is not the place to talk about the downsides to TOMs shoes, (a great idea with bad development theory), but in my opinion, carrying TOMs is not enough to convince us that we can be confident that no one was harmed in the making of the clothing they carry.  Many of their brands are similar to Below the Belt, and are also listed on their website. If you have the time and interest, feel free to do some research on each individual brand!  If you do, please comment below with some of your findings!

Bobby Dazzler

Bobby Dazzler is a strange store, which apparently carries everything.  In fact, I'm not really clear on what kind of store it is.  However, it has no information anywhere on where or how the products it carries are made.

The Body Shop

All of the products at The Body Shop are 100% vegetarian and cruelty free, which again, is great!  But, (to me at least) even better is the fact that the Body Shop believes in Fair Trade! In fact, the company set up its own fair trade program, called Community Trade, which works with 30+ suppliers in 20+ countries and provides 25,000+ people with income!  Their website says that "most" of their products contain Community Trade ingredients.  They list their five core values on their website, which are: Support Community Trade, Defend Human Rights, Against Animal Testing, Active Self-Esteem, and Protect our Planet.

Bootlegger

Bootlegger has no information about its supply chain on its website.

Looking back, this may look bleak.  Only 4.5 of the 21 companies featured on the first part of this project are really great companies, working to provide great opportunities for the labourers in their supply chain.  But don't despair!  I have 77 companies to go!  

I am the problem.

“The world howls for social justice, but when it comes to social responsibility, you sometimes can't even hear crickets chirping.” ― Dean Koontz

  

According to our beloved Google.com, social justice is a noun, meaning: "justice in terms of the distribution of wealth, opportunities, and privileges within a society." Social responsibility on the other hand is "an ethical framework which suggests that an entity, be it an organization or individual, has an obligation to act for the benefit of society at large."

The trend in society of late is one which values social justice.  Everyone from teenagers to middle-aged celebrities is crying out for social justice, for a more equal society; less poverty, more compassion.  We shout from the rooftops the need for a more just society, for a more equal distribution of wealth, for more opportunities for the disadvantaged, for change to the systems that marginalize the majority of the people that live in this world.  We make noise about governments and companies needing to make changes in order to create a fairer world.  Nothing changes so we shout louder, thinking maybe they just don't hear us.  But they do.   Everyone hears us.  Articles, videos, Facebook posts and tweets about social justice issues must take about about half of the worlds bandwidth in this connected aged.  

Everyone wants social justice.  But what about our social responsibility?  Most people are willing to make a lot of noise about how things should change, but how many of us are really willing to give up the advantages we have to ensure that others aren't disadvantaged?

Western society values immediate gratification, convenience, and material accumulation above almost everything else.  Yes, we want social justice, but, for most of us, probably not enough to give up these things. I'm not writing this to be judgmental - I'm guilty of this too.  Standing in the grocery line up, feeling like treating ourselves to some chocolate, how many of us would leave the line to go find a fair trade chocolate bar, (generally placed in a tucked away aisle in the back of the store) when we could reach out and grab the Oh Henry right next to us in line?  Sure, it was probably produced by children who were trafficked across borders and forced to pick cocoa for no wage, but if I left, I'd lose my place in line, and I'd have to walk all the way back to the grocery store.  It could cost me an extra 15 minutes.

G.K. Chesterton, a brilliant British author and theologian, was once asked to weigh in on a discussion addressing the question "what's wrong with the world?"  His reply?

Dear Sirs,

I am.

Sincerely yours,

G.K. Chesterton 

No, G.K. Chesterton (as far as I know) didn't mean that he was single-handedly to blame for every problem this world faces.  But he knew how to take responsibility for his actions that perpetuated the problems.  The answer to this question today is the same as it was then. Yes, the systems in place in this world seem to disadvantage some while others reap the rewards. But the responsibility does not lay solely with those who set-up those systems. We are the ones creating and maintaining the systems by demanding the rewards they allow us to reap.  Maybe these systems would cease to exist if we didn't demand them.  Maybe sweatshops and child labour would become a thing of the past if we didn't demand that our clothing be less expensive.  Maybe slavery would end if we stopped purchasing electronics made with slave-mined tantalum.*  We have a social responsibility.  Our habits create the need for the systems that exploit others.  If we change our habits, maybe this need would disappear, and social justice would be attainable.

According to Matthew 25:31-46, we will all one day stand before God, and he will separate us into two groups.  One, he will invite into the kingdom of God, calling them blessed for feeding the hungry, clothing the naked, and visiting the sick and imprisoned.  The other he will condemn, casting them away for refusing to feed the hungry, clothe the naked and visit the sick and imprisoned.  I wonder what he'll say to us who know that our actions cause suffering around the world, but refuse to change them.  Like the second group, we often passively accept the suffering around us and do nothing to alleviate it.  If passivity alone is enough to condemn us, we who actively encourage systems that cause suffering by reaping the benefits have cause to fear.

We cry out for social justice.  We shout at the top of our lungs that something needs to change.  "Why isn't there social justice?  What's the problem with this world?"  Well, I am the problem.  But I'd like to change that.

*I haven't done much research in this area, but last year Apple released a statement proclaiming that their tantalum mines were free of slave labour.  I hope there is more than one company that can boast this, but at this point Apple is all I know of.

what the New Year holds.

"It always seems impossible until it is done." -Nelson Mandela

At the risk of sounding redundant, a New Year has come.  I don't know what your Facebook feed looks like right now, but mine is riddled with cheesy quotes about new beginnings.  And, while I mock them, I must admit that there's something inspiring and encouraging about thinking that a New Year can mean a new and better you; a new attitude, a new adventure, a new lifestyle.  But of course it's hard not to be cynical, knowing just how many times people have committed to changing their lives for the better in January, and then abandoned whatever goals they set by February.  I've never been big on the resolution thing for this reason, but I have made the habit of giving myself challenges for the coming year.  These challenges generally have something to do with things I need to overcome or learn in order to have the freedom to live my life more fully.  Last year it was climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, a huge lesson in trusting God, the year before it was running a half marathon to learn discipline, graduating, partially just to get out of the rut of being a student, and starting my career, to step out of my comfort zone (2013 was a big year for me.) As it's only three days into the year, I haven't spent much time yet thinking about what areas of my life could use a challenge, but I definitely feel the overwhelming desire to be able to say this time next year that I'm living life more fully than I am today.  And, as evidenced my previous blog posts, one of the things weighing heavily on my heart is living a life of justice.  

I know I've talked a lot about how I want to live out justice in every area of my life, so saying it again is unnecessary, and a little bit unhelpful.  I do want to live justice, and I'd love to challenge others to do likewise, but as a challenge, that one's pretty vague.  One valuable thing I learned in University was how to set a good goal.  A good goal is something called a SMART goal.  It's an acronym for Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic and Timely. By this standard, "living a more just lifestyle" makes for  a ridiculously poor goal.  I've already got the "t" (by the end of the year), so let's start with some specific (and realistic) challenges for the year.

This year, I want to give more away.  Time, money, energy.  I've become somewhat selfish with these things in the last few years.  As life has gotten busier and money has been scarce, I've been less willing to go out of my way to bring joy to the people in my life.  This year, that is going to change.  I'm going to stop thinking about how inconvenient it is to drive half an hour to visit a friend when she's upset about something, and I'm going to show up, fair trade chocolate bar in hand.

That brings me to a second challenge.  This year, there will be items that I will only purchase if they're Fair Trade: Chocolate, coffee, tea and sugar.  All four of these goods are infamous for their use of child and slave labour in production.  In fact, 72% of the cocoa beans used in our chocolate comes from Ghana and the Ivory Coast - both places that have high incidences of cross-border child trafficking, and most of these trafficked children end up as free labour, picking cocoa beans.  I've talked a lot in past blogs about ethical consumerism and voting on what is important through your spending habits.  These are four practical areas in which I can vote for justice, dignity and freedom for those who produce my consumer goods.

On a similar note, this year I want to support companies who are empowering others.  My last blog post featured multiple companies whose products are made by men and women around the world who are making a better life for themselves.  This year I am going to challenge myself to purchase the majority (for the sake of measurability we'll say 70%) of my consumer goods from these companies.

Lastly, I'm going to educate myself more on the injustices of this world and what little-old-me can do about them all the way over here in my comfortable Maple Ridge basement suite.  It's easy to think we're unable to change things because we're so far removed from some of the problems of injustice facing our world, but the truth is, there's lots we can do.  It just takes some thinking outside the box. So I am going to read books written by Godly people about what justice is and how we can be a part of it, and I'm going to find at least one friend I can bounce ideas off of (probably someone smarter than me who can help me discover ways that empower others and do more good than harm.)  And I'll let you know what we come up with along the way.

My hope is that by January 2016 I can look back on this year and say that in 2015 I lived more for others than I did for myself because, in the end, justice is pretty much about valuing others and spending yourself and their behalf.  If everyone did that, there'd be no injustice in this world.

celebrating Christ's birth without harming others.

"For to us a child is born, to us a son is given; and the government shall be upon his shoulder, and his name shall be called Wonderful Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, Prince of Peace." Isaiah 9:6

I love Christmas. I love everything about it - the decorations, the lights, the food, the time with friends and family, and, I'll be honest, the presents.  I love buying gifts for other people, finding something that makes me think of my friends and family and being able to spoil them in ways I don't normally get to.  I enjoy receiving gifts myself as well.  I guess I'm selfish that way.  But for the last few years, I've been trying really hard not to let all those fun things overshadow Christ in my celebration of the Christmas season.  The Advent season so easily becomes about a chocolate per day while counting down until Christmas, but it means so much more.

Advent is a season of waiting.  A friend got me thinking more about my efforts to reflect on Jesus earlier this week when, studying the beginning of Luke, he asked, "What were the people at the beginning of Luke waiting for, and what are you waiting for this advent season?"

The next day I took some time and thought, what am I waiting for?  And I don't mean Christmas festivities.  Mary and Zechariah were waiting for the Lord's salvation to come to all people.  Salvation has come, but we're still waiting.  Waiting for the restoration of the Kingdom of God.  Waiting for the day that justice will reign, when everyone will get what they deserve, and we will all live in perfect relationship with God and with each other.

We eagerly await the day when Christ returns in his glory and brings justice to earth.  Until then, we can only do our best to do justice in our own lives.  So, I've decided to do what I can to make sure the gifts I give this year not only do not harm others, but actually benefit those in need around the world.  In the process, I've found some really amazing, unique companies that not only make beautiful products, but also do their part to build up and empower those in need around the world.  If you're looking for a way to give gifts that benefit others and really hold some meaning this year, here are 10 ideas for you:

1. Madeinafreeworld.com features multiple different companies who are going above and beyond to ensure that their supply chains are free of forced labour and other human rights abuses. http://www.madeinafreeworld.com

2. Greenheartshop.org is a US company with a ton of unique Fair Trade items.  This site is great if you have a PO Box in the States, or a friend who can ship it to you, as they don't ship to Canada. http://www.greenheartshop.org

3. Buy local items.  I know I've said before that I like to buy products that are benefiting those who need it most, and those who need it most aren't generally in the Vancouver area, but it's still great to support local artisans.  I just wouldn't do it exclusively. There are a ton of great local artisans around the Vancouver area, many of whom are making products that benefit charities, or are eco-friendly.  Check out Etsy for local and handmade items. http://www.etsy.com

4.Ten Thousand Villages.  There are a handful of these stores around BC's Lower Mainland, but you can also shop online at http://www.tenthousandvillages.com .  These stores carry some really unique items, all fair trade.  You can find everything from decorations, to cookbooks, to bags and jewellery.

5. Give in someone's name.  I know everyone likes to have gifts to unwrap on Christmas morning, but more and more charities are coming up with alternative Christmas gift ideas.  The Wellspring Foundation for Education, my favourite charity, is working to empower a new generation of Rwandan and Burundian leaders through a values-based, quality education.  They've seen massive amounts of transformation in Rwanda in the last 10 years and are just moving into Burundi.  They have an alternative giving program where you can donate in the name of a loved one, and then a PDF Certificate will pop up, which you can then give to the person to show them how you honoured both them and those in need this Christmas. http://www.thewellspringfoundation.org/donate/alternative-giving/

6.  Dignify.ca is a website that sells hand-made, fair-trade Kantha quilts.  These beautiful blankets are made by Bangladeshi women who are working to replace their income working in the sex trade.  Who wouldn't want a cozy quilt for Christmas, especially knowing that it was helping a woman get out of prostitution? http://www.dignify.ca

7. Modavanti.com - this website has everything.  Clothing, jewellery, bags, athletic wear, leather gifts and stocking stuffers, exclusively featuring brands that pay and treat their labourers fairly and are environmentally friendly. http://www.modavanti.com

8. 31bits.com - If there's a jewellery lover on your list, this site is a must.  Beautiful, unique jewellery, handmade by women in Kenya who receive a sustainable income and holistic education through the 31 bits program.  All the jewellery, though made with famous East African paper beads, are made with a western audience in mind. http://www.31bits.com

9. Thesparrowstudio.com - This site also ships to the USA only, but, if you're a friend of mine, let me know if you see something you love, as I have access to a small stash!  The handmade items on this website are made by women who benefit from a ministry called "More than Sparrows" in Kigali, Rwanda.  The Sparrow Studio is a cooperative made up of 35 Rwandan women, all HIV+ and working to replace their income in the sex trade. http://www.thesparrowstudio.com

10. The Me to We store sells items made by Mothers from the Masai people group in Kenya.  All their products are made with locally sourced materials, recycled paper and packaging, and organic cotton. shop.metowe.com/metowestore/

This Christmas, I want to remember and honour Christ in my celebration by choosing gifts that do justice.  There are tons of ways out there to give gifts this Christmas while remember those in need, and ensuring that your purchased do more good than harm.  These are just a few ways.  If you know of others, feel free to comment so that others can hear about them as well!